Mega ocean liners promise modern luxury with novelties like waterslides and robotic bartenders, but to experience the golden age of water travel, you’ll have to return to the paddleboat. Such an unhurried passage is hard to find in today’s era of planes and freeways. Louis to New Orleans, Twain documented a place and time we’ve nearly forgotten, when travelers made their way along the Big Muddy in “floating palaces…as beautiful as a wedding cake but without the complications.” When Mark Twain wrote the book Life on the Mississippi River, which recounted his four years working as a steamboat pilot before the Civil War, he described the great river valley as “reposeful as a dreamland, nothing worldly about it…nothing to hang a fret or a worry upon.” On a winding journey from St.
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